Flooring does not necessarily mean paving, or stone products. Although used primarily on interior projects, such as barn or workshop floors, under pergolas and bothy style outbuildings, wooden roundels create long-lasting surfaces, which are readily repaired as they decay.
Each log roundel is secured with compacted sharp sand.
A simple method of retaining timber roundels where there is no fixed border is to use roofing slate on edge, double row overlapping, set into the ground.
Using recycled roundels purchased as firewood from a fencing firm, a variety of different size logs – usually between 75mm and 150mm, with a constant length of 150mm – are set into a bed of sharp sand or 3 – 6mm granite dust, neighbour against neighbour to form a comfortable walking surface. Taking care to keep each log vertical, a series of individual units are locked together by brushing the granular material into the interstices and lightly ramming with a suitable stick.
The timber shown here is mainly cedar or other coniferous wood, although any hardwood will do, provided it is in straight lengths. (Trying to instal crooked units is not a good idea!) Some timbers will rot from the heartwood, and these holes may be plugged using hazel or chestnut poles sawn to length and lightly driven into the hole without fracturing the rest of the unit.
The floor may be sealed, stained, or fire charred if required, although if it is installed under cover, it will last for many years before decaying. Ideally, the sub-base should be free-draining to ensure the logs are not seated in water.
